Learn to Draw Women’s Summer Kimono!

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Learn to draw yukatas!

The yukata is perfect for a casual but traditional Japanese aesthetic.

Although a yukata looks similar to a typical kimono, there are actually many differences.

 

This lesson by illustrator Hisatsugu Munakata (宗像久嗣) shows us how to draw a female yukata.

The first half covers the differences between kimonos and yukatas, as well as the basic elements of a yukata.

The second half explains how to draw yukatas, and with simple explanations of how to use ratios and guides to make drawing yukatas easier.

 

What’s the difference between a kimono and a yukata?

At a glance, kimonos and yukatas look very similar. Let’s identify their differences while going over each part’s name.

 

First, kimonos.

The formal kimono can be identified by the following characteristics: the inner collar (haneri, 半襟), sash (obiage, 帯揚げ), belt cord (obijime, 帯締め), cord decorations (obidome, 帯留め), and split-toe socks (tabi, 足袋).

There are various types of obi (belt) of differing formality, including fukuro-obi (袋帯) and nagoya-obi (名古屋帯). The typical footwear is a sandal-like shoe called zori (草履).

 

Next, let’s look at the features of a yukata.

These are simpler than a kimono, with just one collar, and fewer belt accessories like the sash and cord. Socks are typically not worn with a yukata.

The obi is usually the more informal half-width hanhaba-obi (半幅帯) or lightweight heko-obi (兵児帯). Footwear is traditionally the clog-like geta (下駄).

 

The image above is an example. There are no strict rules on how people wear each type of clothing.

I’ve recently seen yukata with decorative cords, and even lace split-toe socks. Some people also like to blend Japanese and Western fashions together. The above examples are the most basic and typical style.

 

Yukata: Basic structure and dressing

While there are countless ways to wear kimonos and yukatas, here I’ll introduce the basic styling.

 

The fabric of a woman's yukata should be as tall as the wearer.

When the yukata is too long, some fabric is folded around the waist to adjust the length. The adjusted section is called ohashori (おはしょり).

It’s a bit like folding a skirt at the waist to adjust the length.

 

Next, the yukata is secured using a tie and the obi is wound around the tie.

 

Drawing a yukata with ratios and guides

This section explains how to use ratios and guides to help draw a yukata.

First, I’ll show how to determine the position of the obi using a character around 7 or 8 heads tall

We’ll use the head length and the face size as the base guides for balancing proportions.

The bottom of the obi should be two head lengths from the bottom of the chin, with the obi’s width being the same as the face.

 

Next is the collar.

Add a reference point at center of the clavicles, then draw a line across the upper chest and create a triangle to connect the points. Use this triangle as a guide when drawing the collar.

The triangle doesn’t have to be exactly equal on each side, but try to keep it a regular shape so that the yukata doesn’t end up looking sloppy.

 

Once you’ve decided the obi’s position and width, let’s draw the bottom half of the yukata. When wearing a yukata, a straight silhouette is considered to be the ideal look.

Due to this, the fabric should drop straight down like the image below.

You can use only straight lines like the left example, or add a slight curve toward the bottom of the fabric like the right example.

 

The hem of the yukata should come to ankle length to keep the wearer cool.

Shorter hems create a more energetic feeling, but can also make your character look a bit childish.

 

Next, let’s draw a slightly loose woman’s yukata collar.

A guideline for drawing collars with a feminine appeal is to make the collar fall back by about a hand-width.

Here’s how to draw a collar:

 

Next is the obi (belt).

A half-width obi called hanhaba-obi (半幅帯) is commonly worn with yukata. The width of a hanhaba-obi is usually around 15 to 17 cm, about the same size as the face of an adult woman.

 

Seams and folds

Next, let’s discuss seams and folds.

 

 

 

■ Front seam (okumi-sen, おくみ線)

When a yukata is made, a cloth called the okumi (おくみ) is sewn at the front side of the yukata, forming a seam called okumi-sen (おくみ線).

The green line in the image below shows the okumi-sen.

The line is usually above the right leg rather than the middle of the body.

The exact position may shift slightly between where the thumb or pinky rests when the hands are laid in front, depending on the person.

 

 

 

■ Back and side seams (sechushin, 背中心 and waki-sen, 脇線)

The seam on the back of a yukata is called the sechushin (背中心). When looking at reference photos, you may sometimes notice that this seam is only straight above the obi, but misaligned at the lower body like the red line shown below. However, for illustrations, it will look more natural to draw it as a central straight line.

The same rule applies to the side seam (waki-sen, 脇線). Although in real life, these seams shift back and forth based on the wearer, you can just draw them as straight lines.

 

 

 

■ Sleeve seams (sodetsuke-sen, 袖付け線)

The sleeve seams (sodetsuke-sen, 袖付け線) are the lines shown in green below. These lines are at the middle point between the center of the fabric and the sleeve cuffs.

 

 

 

■ Main creases on a yukata

The illustration below shows the main creases seen on a yukata.

Yukatas are made from thin fabric, so you can add detailed creases to create a realistic effect.

 

Accessories for yukata

Finally, I will introduce about accessories and collar matching suit for Yukata.

 

 

 

■ Accessories for yukata

 

Hats:

Choose hats that match your character, such as straw hats, boaters, flapper hats, etc.

Yukatas are associated with summer festivals, so folding fans will match as well.

Fans are usually tucked between the obi and back, and folding fans are tucked in the front.

 

Hair pins

Various types of hair pin, called kanzashi (かんざし) are available.

A flower design can be nice for illustrations.

 

Bags:

While baskets and net bags look good with yukatas, but there are no rules that require the wearer to specifically use them. This just an example to show that you can enhance your design with a summery bag.

 

Cords and decorations

Obi cords can be worn with kimono or yukata, so choose the designs that match your character.

As shown in the example below, there are various types, such as ones with metal fittings on the back or ones like beads.

 

 

 

■ Wear left over right

 

Although there are many ways to wear and draw yukata, there is one rule: the order of folding the fabric in the front.

For all types of kimono, including yukata, the left side must always be folded over the right.

An easy way to remember this is to know that the end result will look like the letter “y”. IT also means the right hand can be tucked inside.

Kimono are only folded right-over-left when dressing the dead for burial, so make sure you get this order right.

 

Palmie video lesson

The tips so far focus on a modern style of wearing yukata, rather than strict rules.

There are many methods to accurately draw yukata.

 

The below video from Palmie goes into more details that we aren’t covered in this lesson, so please check it out!

Note: This video is in Japanese.

 

Over 100 free lessons are available on the drawing course website Palmie! Don’t miss the opportunity to check it out!

Note: The website is only available in Japanese.

 

・ Artist profile: Hisatsugu Munakata (宗像久嗣)

Beside my day job, I’ve been drawing illustrations for quite a while. I also dabble in graphic design and 3D, and photography is my hobby. My illustrations are themed around female fashion, but I also like retro styles and modern architecture. I’m also a fan of traditional Japanese clothes in real life too.

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